10: Textiles

Textiles form a vital part of our cultural heritage, but are often overlooked. They have been a ubiquitous part of every culture and society throughout history, and include such items as clothing, household goods, tools and other functional items, decoration and furniture. As a result, they provide insights into social history, trade, agriculture, artistry and technology. However, many textile materials deteriorate relatively rapidly, especially with use, and furthermore they are often discarded, repurposed or recycled. As they are easily lost, it is the role of the textile conservator and the conservation scientist to ensure that these objects will survive for future generations, and can be understood and appreciated for the history they represent. To do so, it is necessary to have a knowledge of their composition, chemistry, microstructure and structure, and the way in which they will interact with one another, with their environment and with any treatments that are carried out. This chapter will discuss these properties for the most common classes of textile fibres, and look at the analytical techniques which can be used to provide these insights.